Kawasaki Z1000SX - Service manual > Troubleshooting Guide
NOTE
- Refer to the Fuel System chapter for most of DFI trouble shooting guide.
- This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.
Engine Doesn't Start, Starting Difficulty:
Starter motor not rotating:
- Ignition and engine stop switch not ON
- Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trouble
- Starter motor trouble
- Battery voltage low
- Starter relay not contacting or operating
- Starter button not contacting
- Starter system wiring shorted or open
- Ignition switch trouble
- Engine stop switch trouble
- Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn't turn over:
- Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)
- Starter clutch trouble
- Starter idle gear trouble
Engine won't turn over:
- Valve seizure
- Valve lifter seizure
- Cylinder, piston seizure
- Crankshaft seizure
- Connecting rod small end seizure
- Connecting rod big end seizure
- Transmission gear or bearing seizure
- Camshaft seizure
- Starter idle gear seizure
- Balancer bearing seizure
No fuel flow:
- No fuel in tank
- Fuel pump trouble
- Fuel tank air vent obstructed
- Fuel filter clogged
- Fuel line clogged
No spark; spark weak:
- Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off
- Ignition switch not ON
- Engine stop switch turned OFF
- Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral
- Battery voltage low
- Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)
- Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
- Spark plug incorrect
- Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
- Stick coil trouble
- ECU trouble
- Neutral, starter lockout, or sidestand switch trouble
- Crankshaft sensor trouble
- Ignition switch or engine stop switch shorted
- Starter system wiring shorted or open
- Main 30 A or ignition fuse blown
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
- Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted
- Air passage clogged
- Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
- Leak from oil filler cap, crankcase breather hose or air cleaner drain hose.
Compression Low:
- Spark plug loose
- Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
- Cylinder, piston worn
- Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
- Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
- Cylinder head gasket damaged
- Cylinder head warped
- Valve spring broken or weak
- No valve clearance
- Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:
- Battery voltage low
- Immobilizer system trouble (Equipped Models)
- Stick coil trouble
- Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
- Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
- Spark plug incorrect
- ECU trouble
- Crankshaft sensor trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
- Bypass screw maladjusted
- Air passage clogged
- Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged
- Pilot passage clogged
- Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
- Fuel tank air vent obstructed
- Fuel pump trouble
- Throttle body assy holder loose
- Air cleaner duct loose
Compression low:
- Spark plug loose
- Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
- No valve clearance
- Cylinder, piston worn
- Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
- Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
- Cylinder head gasket damaged
- Cylinder head warped
- Valve spring broken or weak
- Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
- Camshaft cam worm
Run-on (dieseling):
- Ignition switch trouble
- Engine stop switch trouble
- Fuel injector trouble
- Loosen terminal of battery (-) cable or ECU ground lead
- Carbon accumulating on valve seating surface
- Engine overheating
Other:
- ECU trouble
- Throttle body assy not synchronizing
- Engine oil viscosity too high
- Drive train trouble
- Brake dragging
- Clutch slipping
- Engine overheating
- Air suction valve trouble
- Air switching valve trouble
Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect:
- Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
- Spark plug incorrect
- Stick coil shorted or not in good contact trouble
- Stick coil trouble
- ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
- Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
- Air cleaner duct loose
- Water or foreign matter in fuel
- Throttle body assy holder loose
- Fuel to injector insufficient
- Fuel tank air vent obstructed
- Fuel line clogged
- Fuel pump trouble
Compression low:
- Spark plug loose
- Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
- No valve clearance
- Cylinder, piston worn
- Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
- Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
- Cylinder head gasket damaged
- Cylinder head warped
- Valve spring broken or weak
- Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
Knocking:
- Carbon built up in combustion chamber
- Fuel poor quality or incorrect
- Spark plug incorrect
- ECU trouble
Miscellaneous:
- Throttle valve won't fully open
- Brake dragging
- Clutch slipping
- Engine overheating
- Engine oil level too high
- Engine oil viscosity too high
- Drive train trouble
- Camshaft cam worm
- Air suction valve trouble
- Air switching valve trouble
- Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)
Overheating:
Firing incorrect:
- Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
- Spark plug incorrect
- ECU trouble
Muffler overheating:
- For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if with only one cylinder misfiring or poor running (Request the nearest service facility to correct it)
- For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead battery (Connect another full-charged battery with jumper cables, and start the engine using the electric starter)
- For KLEEN, do not start the engine under misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor connection of the stick coil
- For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle with the ignition switch off (Turn the ignition switch ON and run the engine) ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
- Throttle body assy holder loose
- Air cleaner duct loose
- Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
- Air cleaner clogged
Compression high:
- Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Engine load faulty:
- Clutch slipping
- Engine oil level too high
- Engine oil viscosity too high
- Drive train trouble
- Brake dragging
Lubrication inadequate:
- Engine oil level too low
- Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
Oil cooler incorrect:
- Oil cooler clogged
Gauge incorrect:
- Water temperature gauge broken
- Water temperature sensor broken
Coolant incorrect:
- Coolant level too low
- Coolant deteriorated
- Wrong coolant mixed ratio
Cooling system component incorrect:
- Radiator fin damaged
- Radiator clogged
- Thermostat trouble
- Radiator cap trouble
- Radiator fan relay trouble
- Fan motor broken
- Fan blade damaged
- Water pump not turning
- Water pump impeller damaged
Over Cooling:
Gauge incorrect:
- Water temperature gauge broken
- Water temperature sensor broken
Cooling system component incorrect:
- Thermostat trouble
Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping:
- Friction plate worn or warped
- Steel plate worn or warped
- Clutch spring broken or weak
- Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
- No clutch lever play
- Clutch inner cable trouble
- Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch not disengaging properly:
- Clutch plate warped or too rough
- Clutch spring compression uneven
- Engine oil deteriorated
- Engine oil viscosity too high
- Engine oil level too high
- Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
- Clutch hub nut loose
- Clutch hub spline damaged
- Clutch friction plate installed wrong
- Clutch lever play excessive
- Clutch release mechanism trouble
Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn't go into gear; shift pedal doesn't return:
- Clutch not disengaging
- Shift fork bent or seized
- Gear stuck on the shaft
- Gear positioning lever binding
- Shift return spring weak or broken
- Shift return spring pin loose
- Shift mechanism arm spring broken
- Shift mechanism arm broken
- Shift pawl broken
Jumps out of gear:
- Shift fork ear worn, bent
- Gear groove worn
- Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
- Shift drum groove worn
- Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
- Shift fork guide pin worn
- Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn
Overshifts:
- Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
- Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:
- ECU trouble
- Carbon built up in combustion chamber
- Fuel poor quality or incorrect
- Spark plug incorrect
- Overheating
Piston slap:
- Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
- Cylinder, piston worn
- Connecting rod bent
- Piston pin, piston pin hole worn
Valve noise:
- Valve clearance incorrect
- Valve spring broken or weak
- Camshaft bearing worn
- Valve lifter worn
Other noise:
- Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
- Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
- Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
- Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck
- Piston ring groove worn
- Piston seizure, damage
- Cylinder head gasket leaking
- Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
- Crankshaft runout excessive
- Engine mount loose
- Crankshaft bearing worn
- Primary gear worn or chipped
- Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
- Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
- Air suction valve damaged
- Air switching valve damaged
- Alternator rotor loose
- Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)
- Exhaust butterfly valve cable loose
- Balancer gear worn or chipped
- Balancer shaft position maladjusted
- Balancer bearing worn
- Balancer rubber damper damaged
Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:
- Clutch damper weak or damaged
- Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
- Clutch housing gear worn
- Wrong installation of outside friction plate
Transmission noise:
- Bearings worn
- Transmission gear worn or chipped
- Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
- Engine oil insufficient
Drive line noise:
- Drive chain adjusted improperly
- Drive chain worn
- Rear and/or engine sprocket worn
- Chain lubrication insufficient
- Rear wheel misaligned
Abnormal Frame Noise:
Front fork noise:
- Oil insufficient or too thin
- Spring weak or broken
Rear shock absorber noise:
- Shock absorber damaged
Disc brake noise:
- Pad installed incorrectly
- Pad surface glazed
- Disc warped
- Caliper trouble
Other noise:
- Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened
Oil Pressure Warning Indicator Light (LED) Goes On:
- Engine oil pump damaged
- Engine oil screen clogged
- Engine oil filter clogged
- Engine oil level too low
- Engine oil viscosity too low
- Camshaft bearing worn
- Crankshaft bearing worn
- Oil pressure switch damaged
- Wiring faulty
- Relief valve stuck open
- O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged
Exhaust Smokes Excessively:
White smoke:
- Piston oil ring worn
- Cylinder worn
- Valve oil seal damaged
- Valve guide worn
- Engine oil level too high
Black smoke:
- Air cleaner clogged
Brown smoke:
- Air cleaner duct loose
- Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing
Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory:
Handlebar hard to turn:
- Cable routing incorrect
- Hose routing incorrect
- Wiring routing incorrect
- Steering stem nut too tight
- Steering stem bearing damaged
- Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate
- Steering stem bent
- Tire air pressure too low
Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates:
- Tire worn
- Swingarm pivot bearing worn
- Rim warped, or not balanced
- Wheel bearing worn
- Handlebar holder bolt loose
- Steering stem nut loose
- Front, rear axle runout excessive
- Engine mounting bolt loose
Handlebar pulls to one side:
- Frame bent
- Wheel misalignment
- Swingarm bent or twisted
- Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive
- Steering maladjusted
- Front fork bent
- Right and left front fork oil level uneven
Shock absorption unsatisfactory:
- (Too hard)
- Front fork oil excessive
- Front fork oil viscosity too high
- Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard
- Tire air pressure too high
- Front fork bent
- (Too soft)
- Tire air pressure too low
- Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
- Front fork oil viscosity too low
- Rear shock adjustment too soft
- Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
- Rear shock absorber oil leaking
Brake Doesn't Hold:
- Air in the brake line
- Pad or disc worn
- Brake fluid leakage
- Disc warped
- Contaminated pad
- Brake fluid deteriorated
- Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder
- Master cylinder scratched inside
Battery Trouble:
Battery discharged:
- Charge insufficient
- Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage)
- Battery cable making poor contact
- Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage)
- Ignition switch trouble
- Alternator trouble
- Wiring faulty
- Regulator/rectifier trouble
Battery overcharged:
- Alternator trouble
- Regulator/rectifier trouble
- Battery faulty
See also:
Kawasaki Z1000SX - Service manual > Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
Headlight Lead Run the brake hose to the rear side of the headlight lead. Brake Hose Run the front right turn signal light lead through the air switching valve. And run to the rear side of the light switch housing. Air Switching Valve Clamp Air Switching Valve Air Switching Valve Hose Run the air switching valve hose to the upside of the stick coil lead. Stick Coil Lead Run the injector lead to the front side of the breather hose. Injector Lead Breather Hose Hold the injector lead with clamp Run the intake air temperature sensor to the upside of the crankshaft sensor lead. Intake Air Temperature Sensor Lead Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connect the horn lead connectors so that the horn lead comes upside. Insert the clamp on the main harness to the rib of the frame as shown. Run the headlight lead, right and left light switch housing lead, ignition switch lead, immobilizer amplifier lead (equipped models) and radiator fan motor lead to the front side of engine mount bracket, right turn signal light lead and air switching valve, and run them under the throttle cable and outside of frame. Left Switch Housing Lead Ignition Switch Lead Throttle Cables Right Switch Housing Lead Immobilizer Amplifier Lead Headlight Lead Run the clutch cable under the other lead and front side of radiator. Run the main harness to the outside of the between engine mount bracket and frame. Run the radiator fan motor lead, right switch housing and throttle cable in order from the frame. Radiator Fan Motor Lead Run the starter motor cable (+) to the upside of the battery negative (-) cable. Run the frame ground lead to the front side of the starter motor cable and battery negative (-) cable. Run the alternator lead to the under the main harness. Alternator Lead Run the alternator lead and crankshaft sensor lead to the rear side of breather hose. Main Harness Hold the alternator lead and crankshaft sensor lead with clamp. Battery Negative (-) Cable Starter Motor (+) Cable Frame Ground Lead Crankshaft Sensor Lead Run the fuel pump lead to the upside of the exhaust butterfly valve cables, to the outside of the fuse box, and to under the fuel tank bracket. Run the rear of main harness to inside of the battery case, to underside of the fuel pump lead, to rear of the battery case mounting and to the outside of the battery case as shown. Hold the fuel pump lead (main harness side) with the clamp. Hold the main harness with the clamp. Run the regulator/rectifier harness to the under the battery case. Run the starter motor cable to the upside of the main harness. Run the starter motor cable to between the main relay and battery, and to inside of the starter motor cable. Run the oxygen sensor lead (equipped models), crankshaft sensor lead and rear brake light switch lead to the outside of main harness. Crankshaft Sensor Lead Hold the rear brake light switch connector with the clamp. Rear Brake Light Switch Lead Oxygen Sensor Lead Main Harness Insert the clamps to the ribs of the inside of the frame, hold the oxygen sensor lead and crankshaft sensor lead. Run the regulator/rectifier harness from the cutout on the battery case to under side of the battery case. Regulator/Rectifier Harness Kawasaki Diagnostic System Connector ABS Self-diagnosis Connector (ABS Equipped Models) Relay Box Rear Left Turn Signal Light Lead Rear Right Turn Signal Light Lead ECU Run the leads to forward of the rear fender wall connect them. Run the turn signal light leads to the inside of ECU rib under the ECU and connect them. Run the right and left turn signal light leads to forward of the rear frame wall and connect them. Run the seat lock cable to front side of the frame wall and upside of the turn signal light lead and license plate light lead. Rear Left and Right Turn Signal Light Lead Run the license plate light lead to right side of the frame and connect them at position as shown. Tail/Brake Light (LED) Lead Run the licence plate light lead and tail/brake light (LED) lead reward to under of the rear frame after connected. Be careful not to pinch the leads with rear fender. License Plate Light Lead Run the licence plate light lead (main harness side) and tail/brake light (LED) lead (main harness side) reward to under of the rear flame (for prevention to pinch the leads with rear fender). Throttle Cable (Accelerator) Throttle Cable (Decelerator) Right Switch Housing Lead Brake Hose Clamp the brake hose, throttle cable (decelerator), throttle cable (accelerator) and right switch housing lead in order from the outside of frame. Run the brake hose comes to the most front side of the other lead. Run the right switch housing lead comes to the most rear side of the other lead. Front Right Turn Signal Light Lead Run the throttle cables, clutch cable, front turn signal light lead, right switch housing leads through this point to the inside of the frame. Clutch Cable Run the throttle cables and right switch housing leads through the inside of front fork. Clamp Run the exhaust butterfly valve cables to inside of the main harness. Exhaust Butterfly Valve Close Cable Exhaust Butterfly Valve Open Cable Main Harness Bend the clamp upward to secure the harness at the portion of the taped. Install the main harness clamp at the headlight bracket. Bend the clamp reward to inside to secure the harness at the portion of the taped. Main Harness Clamp Run the clutch cable and left switch housing lead in order from the inside of clamp. Clamp Run the left switch housing leads, ignition switch lead, immobilizer antenna lead (equipped models), and clutch cables to the inside of the front fork. Immobilizer Antenna Lead Clutch Cable Left Switch Housing Lead Ignition Switch Lead Run the ignition switch lead and immobilizer antenna lead inside of clamp. Clamp Run the clutch cable outside through the lower side of the radiator mounting position, and to the under of the other leads. Clamp Run the ignition switch lead, immobilizer antenna lead and left switch housing lead to the inside of the clamp. Insert the hole on the engine top heat protector into the slit on the radiator side pad. Connect the left turn signal light lead at the rear of radiator side pad, and push its connector into the cutout on the pad. Band Cover the right switch housing lead, ignition switch lead, immobilizer antenna lead (equipped models) and radiator fan motor lead with the rubber cover, and tie the rubber cover and main harness and neutral switch/oil pressure switch with the band then secure them to the heat insulation plate. Cut the band excess length after tying them. Main Harness Neutral Switch/Oil Pressure Switch Lead Ignition Switch Lead Right Switch Housing Lad Radiator Fan Motor Lead Rubber Cover Immobilizer Antenna Lead Hold the engine top heat protector to the heat insulation plate with the rivets from the front side (the right side is same as the left side). Heat Insulator Run the neutral switch/oil pressure switch lead to inside of rubber cover and connect them. Then hold the neutral switch/oil pressure switch lead with clamp on the engine bracket. Clamp Hold the neutral switch/oil pressure switch lead with clamp on the bracket. Air Cleaner Drain Hose Neutral Switch/Oil Pressure Switch Lead Idle Adjusting Screw Run the starter motor cable to the upside of the idle adjusting screw. Sidestand Switch Lead Speed Sensor Lead Fuel Tank Breather Hose (other than CAL and SEA-B1 models) Fuel Tank Drain Hose Starter Motor Cable Run the alternator lead to the outside of air cleaner drain hose and inside of neutral switch/oil pressure switch lead. Run the speed sensor lead and sidestand switch lead to the inside of the breather hose and fuel tank drain hose (other than CAL and SEA-B1 models). Run the end of fuel tank drain hose is as shown. Hold the sidestand switch lead with the clamp. Clamp Alternator Lead Air Cleaner Drain Hose Idle Adjusting Screw Run the idle adjusting screw to the under of the starter motor cable, outside of the air cleaner drain hose. Starter Motor Cable Run the fuel hose, starter motor cable, and alternator lead in order from the inside of the frame. Fuel Hose Alternator Lead Fuel Tank Drain Hose Sidestand Switch Lead Fuel Tank Breather Hose (other than CAL and SEA-B1 Models) Run the fuel tank breather hose (other than CAL and SEA-B1 models), sidestand switch lead and fuel tank drain hose to the inside of the chain cover. Air Cleaner Housing Air Switching Valve Hose Air Switching Valve Tighten the clamp bolt from left side. Tighten the clamp bolt from right side. Intake Air Temperature Sensor Install the clamp so that knob of the clamp faces rear side of the frame as shown. Breather Hose Clamp Clamps Air Cleaner Drain Hose Catch Tank White Paint Mark Right Left Viewed from A Insert the subharness connector to the clamp on the air suction valve cover. Run the subharness under the hose. Hose Subharness Run the subharness between the #1 and #2 throttle body holders so as not to pinch the lead with the throttle body assy. Install the clamp as shown in the direction. Water Hose Starter Motor Cable Viewed from B Water Temperature Sensor Lead Hold the neutral switch/oil pressure switch lead with the clamp at the upside of the separate pipe of the water pipe. Run the neutral switch/oil pressure switch lead with the clamp at the rear side of the separate pipe of the water pipe. Connect the neutral switch lead to the neutral switch. Do not stretch the lead after connected. Run the oil pressure switch lead to the inside of the water pipe. Cover the oil pressure switch with the switch cover. Hold the crankshaft sensor lead with the clamp. Crankshaft Sensor Lead Water pipe Run the alternator lead between the crankcase and water pipe. Viewed from A Regulator/Rectifier Harness Hold the regulator/rectifier harness with clamp. Rear Brake Light Switch Lead Exhaust Butterfly Valve Open Cable Exhaust Butterfly Valve Close Cable Oxygen Sensor Lead (Equipped Models) Run the rear brake light switch lead through the clamp to outside of exhaust butterfly valve cables. Run the exhaust butterfly valve open cable and close cable through the clamp in order from the front. Clamp (for Exhaust Butterfly Valve Cables) Clamp (for Oxygen Sensor Lead and Crankshaft Sensor Lead) Bend the clamp reaward to secure the oxygen sensor lead and crankshaft sensor lead. Crankshaft Sensor Lead Clamp (for Exhaust Butterfly Valve Cable) Run the exhaust butterfly valve open cable and close cable through the clamp in order from the front. Install the clamps as shown in the direction. Reserve Tank Hose Radiator Hose Water Hose Water Hose Reserve Tank Reserve Tank Overflow Hose Thermostat Radiator Radiator Hose Water Pipe Oil Cooler Water Hose Water Hose Water Pipe Water Hose Install the clamps so that its opening facing the direction indicated with arrow. Clamp (for Water Hose) Clamp (for Radiator Hose) Hold the clutch cable with clamp. Run the front right turn signal light lead to the upside of the reserve tank overflow hose. Front Turn Signal Light Lead Reserve Tank Overflow Hose Clamp (for Clutch Cable) Clutch Cable Viewed From A About 45º Viewed From B About 90º Run the reserve tank overflow hose to the inside of the frame. Reserve Tank Overflow Hose Run the water hose, reserve tank overflow hose, water hose in order the outside of frame. Water Hose Water Hose Connect the right turn signal light lead at the rear of radiator side pad, and push its connector into the cutout on the pad. Right Turn Signal Light Lead Run the reserve tank overflow hose to behind of the adjusting bolt, and between the adjusting bolt and frame, and directs it to underside of the frame. Hold the oxygen sensor lead (equipped models) and crankshaft sensor lead with clamp. Oxygen Sensor Lead Crankshaft Sensor Lead Run the clutch cable to front of engine bracket through the clamp on the front of the crankshaft sensor cover and inside of upper radiator hose. Clutch Cable Radiator Hose Install the clamps as shown, noting its screw head direction. White Paint Mark (Install the water hose so that the white paint mark faces upside of the engine.) Water Hose White Paint Mark (Install the water hose so that the white paint mark faces outside of the engine.) Water Hose Straight Side Install the radiator hose until the rised portion of the water pipe. Curve Side Viewed from A Install the clamp so that the tab of the clamp faces rear side of the engine. Install the clamp at the thermostat housing so that the tab of the clamp faces rear side of the engine. Viewed from B Breather Hose Water Hose White Paint Mark Install the clamp so that the tab of the clamp faces right side of the engine. Water Hose White Paint Mark (Install the water hose and water pipe so that the white paint mark faces outside of the engine.)